After the beautiful train ride through the Swiss and German countryside I was excited to see what my first visit to Germany would offer. The Fleming’s Hotel in Munich City is right across from the train station. It is a great hotel within walking distance of the main city attractions. Thankfully I was not traveling with any friends as this hotel is clearly for single travelers or couples. The bathroom is entirely glass open into the room.
A quick walk around Munich (Munchen in German) and I got a sense of the history and focus of this Bavarian city. Historically speaking it has been largely re-built since the War but it was re-built in a fashion that gives it the appearance of never having been destroyed. The focus is clearly on enjoying life, and beer! There are beer gardens all over the place.
Just off of the Marienplatz (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marienplatz) was a Haagen Dazs. All of a sudden it dawned on me that this might indeed be where Haagen Dazs originated. So of course I had to stop and partake in some ice cream where it was created. The ice cream was great but I have since found that I was completely wrong. I looked up the history of Haagen Dazs and it actually started in the Bronx! Not only that but the founder is Polish. I guess my international studies degree didn’t serve me too well on this account as it appears I am closer to the original when I’m in my apartment in New York City than here in Germany. Well either way I enjoyed that stop!
After a good nights rest I woke up this morning ready to see all that Munich has to offer. First stop…the car rental desk. Now that is not a great site to see but I had big plans to drive to Neuschwanstein Castle in southern Bavaria tomorrow. After securing my ride for tomorrow I raced over to the Marienplatz, the most central plaza in Munich with the new and old Munchen city halls (Neues Rathaus and Altes Rathaus) located on sides of the square. The Neues Rathaus is by far the more beautiful building and at 11 AM and 5 PM there is a show of sorts. Up on the façade of the building is the Rathaus Glockenspiel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rathaus-Glockenspiel) which has numerous life size figures which act out a fight and a dance while the bells ring a tune. An amazing number of people stood to watch the show. After it ended I turned to the next site that was just off the Marienplatz, St. Peters church. I had read that this was the place that provided the best views of the city. I always enjoy going to a high spot in each place I visit so I can truly get the best vantage point of where things are. The bad part is that this was a very tall tower and there were only stairs. One narrow staircase was both the up and the down directions. More than three hundred stairs later I arrived at the top which held amazing views of all of Munich and off into the distance the Alps. Well worth the climb. And from here I could see my next stop, the Viktualien-markt (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viktualienmarkt).
There were two reasons for the visit to this farmer’s market that had begun in 1807. One was because it was supposed to have some very interesting food and craft and the second reason was that it has a beer garden. What an amazing market. It is there on a daily basis and has seafood, meat, bread, cheese, produce and crafts. While it was only 11 AM I saw that there were a number of people with beer in hand…and I’d been in Germany for 15 hours and had not yet imbibed. I sat down with what was the largest beer I’ve ever had and was amazed to see how many people were ordering beer. I had also ordered the largest pretzel I’d ever seen and sat and enjoyed my beer and pretzel for a while. At that point I thought I’d see a few more sites.
As I walked to the Residenz, I realized I was quite tipsy from my gigantic 11 AM beer. When in Germany! So I walked/stumbled to the Residenz which was home to the ruling familes of Bavaria for many years beginning in 1385 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munich_Residence). Unfortunately I didn’t get to see much or take any pictures as it was being set up for a concert of some sort that had overtaken the entire courtyard. Still feeling a bit hazy I decided maybe it was a good time for a quick sit-down in the Englische Garten. I walked through the Hofgarten which is the royal garden and entered the Enlische Garten which is apparently one of the largest city parks in all of Europe. It is absolutely beautiful. It didn’t hurt that the leaves were turning and that it was probably quiet given it was Monday so it was not overrun with people. It reminded me of Central Park but with rivers running through it. Oh yeah there were also lots of naked people since nude sunbathing is quite normal. Naked people in Central Park is not welcomed by most New Yorkers so I’m glad that phenomenon hasn’t started at home!
After a nice time in the park I stopped in Max-Joseph Platz on the other side of the Residenz. This plaza is home to the city’s theaters and opera and stands at one end of Maximilianstrasse which is clearly the expensive shopping street of Munich. Nearby is the Odeonplatz which has the Commander’s Hall on the edge. This is where Hitler was arrested before the War. It is amazing to think of the years of history from Maximilian I forward and how much went on in all of these years, good and bad.
All this history wore me out so it was time for another German beer. I headed back to my now familiar beer garden and got myself some food and a beer. Sitting at communal tables I was greeted by several old time Munich residents and gave a Prost (cheers) and enjoyed my late lunch and beer. Time to head to the hotel to sleep off the time in the sun and the beer.
Today (Tuesday) I woke up ready to conquer the autobahn! I had originally thought I’d try to rent a Porsche and drive on the autobahn. Unfortunately I didn’t plan ahead (for once) and the prices had gone up significantly and I could not bring myself to spend the money to do this. Remember I was shocked in London when the Dow had gone below 10,000? It is now at 8,500! So, while not a Porsche I went for German perfection in a Mercedes. This car would certainly handle the autobahn quite well, right? Ends up that all they had left for me was a huge Mercedes SUV even though I’d really wanted something sportier. I know, I know…rough isn’t it.
Well, when in Germany, although driving a Mercedes, one must stop at the BMW museum and BMW world (http://www.bmw-museum.de/). I can still remember the Frederick’s old BMW from our childhood in Walnut Creek (which strangely is where I remember being when the news of Reagan being shot came on the radio) and of course Ingrid had a great BMW for years. Now both cars probably collectors items I thought I’d see if they were featured at the museum. This museum delivers great bang for the buck for a car lover like myself. The buildings are sleek and the exhibits even sleeker. The cars were so cool to see including the Z8 featured in a James Bond movie (license plate on it…007) and my favorite, a 1959 BMW 507 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_507). I also found the BMW that everyone should buy now that gasoline is so expensive. It is used but I think you’ll like the 2004 H2R, a hydrogen concept car that broke speed records. I believe this is where I say Price Upon Request. I think even non-car lovers would have found this museum interesting…though I am biased. After the BMW museum I was able to visit the site of the 1972 Munich Olympic games. I noted to myself that these games took place the year I was born. A few months after they ended I arrived in the world. The site lies empty now but this was the site of an Olympic games tainted with the massacre of the Israeli Olympic team.
I think most have a specific image in mind when thinking of the Autobahn. My vision was sort of like a race track full of Porsches and other high performance cars and cars. There'd be cars littering the side as they’ve blown out their engines or need a “pit stop”. Actually, the Autobahn is really just a highway. One on which there are clear rules of the road. Only use the left to pass and make sure you get the heck out of the way fast! I hit the Autobahn and felt a little sheepish about opening the Mercedes up. Then I got passed by a BMW that must have been going easily 100 miles per hour. So I joined in…mom don’t read this part. I punched it and hit 220 KM per hour (roughly 135 miles per hour) quite easily and yet continued to have to move over for some other cars that were going faster. It was amazing to go that fast. While it wasn’t a sports car this was a fun drive. With only around 25 miles of my trip on the Autobahn, at this speed it was a short drive. I then exited to drive through the countryside to Neuschwanstein Castle.
Neuschwanstein Castle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neuschwanstein) has been something I’ve long wanted to visit. It is a castle most of us know at least by image. For most of my life I knew it was in Europe but had no idea exactly where. Well now I knew it was in Germany but after at least an extra hour of turning around and around and around I still didn’t know exactly where it was. There seem to be no road signs in Germany. Then I saw a few tour buses going by and decided to follow. The countryside was amazingly beautiful with rolling hills leading up to the Alps. The leaves were turning and giving Vermont and New Hampshire a run for their money. Upon arrival I could see the castle on the hillside. It was just as I’d envisioned it, basically built into the side of the mountain. A cute little town at the foot of the mountains was the jumping off point for the walk to the castle. It was around a 30-minute walk up the hill to get to the castle. The walk reminded me of being in Yosemite with the rocks and cliffs and sound of a waterfall. The castle is extraordinary. While Ludwig may have been deemed insane (though that story is questionable) he had quite a vision to create this place. I walked past the castle to the Marienbrucke, a bridge that looks down on the castle and hangs over a huge waterfall. The bridge was a bit wobbly and my fear of heights was not helping but the view was worth it. Words can’t do justice to how beautiful the scenery of this entire day trip was. Certainly one place I would recommend all to visit if given the opportunity.
After an early dinner (bratwurst) in the village I began my drive back to Munich on a different route than I’d taken to get there. I drove through quaint Bavarian towns and then a blast onto the Autobahn once again. Once back in Munich I drove around town for a bit to see what some of the non-tourist areas looked like. Tonight, with the beginnings of a cold brewing in my head, I decided to take it easy and get myself packed up to leave for Prague in the morning.
